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Lined up above the bar, the bottles of gentian should eliminate any doubts you may have as to the authenticity of this Lyonnais “bouchon” restaurant (a timeworn wooden bar, red leather benches) that’s been taken over with panache by Pierre Cheucle. His menu appeals to everyone (Japanese tourists, old-school diners, chic kids from the neighborhood…) with its traditional Rhone fare: extremely tender artichokes in vinaigrette or a stunning pork carpaccio, before a rare rib-eye steak au poivre or a grilled parslied sausage, both served with creamy mashed potatoes. Save some room for the divinely sweet praline tart. As for the wines, it’s regional as well with a Côtes-du-Rhône Château La Borie (€6 a glass), a Viognier Domaine du Chêne (€29 a bottle) or a La Perle Verte beer brewed with Puy lentils (€5). Set menu option €19 (lunch), à la carte €31-48 (dinner). // I.B.
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